FMP – Year 1 (week 7)

Monday

As intended I spent today making the remainder of my garments. The first shirt I put together was a really short and fairly enjoyable task. I began by measuring 27cm from the bottom and drawing a line. This ended up just below the two large pockets on the front. I cut along this line taking great caution so that I could leave the edges raw, again to represent exposure to the ongoings on unjust leadership. I then removed the buttons with an unpicker and marked out where I wanted the zip to go. After marking out the intended placement, I pinned a strip of PU vinyl to the right hand side (where the buttons had been) to neaten the overall appearance and conceal the marks that had been left from the buttons. I felt this was appropriate because of the ways dictators lie to their empires and cover up the truth about their lack of freedom through propaganda and manipulative political tactics. To finish this shirt pinned and stitched the zip to the front and then proceeded to do the same to the back using a smaller version of the same zip. To get the shape I just had to cut a slit from the bottom-up to match the size of the zip. Thankfully I already owned these components so didn’t need to buy any new, reducing my production costs and additionally the environmental impacts.

Next I added the free machine embroidery to the collar and cuff of the existing (striped) shirt. I did this by hand-writing ‘tyranny’ to the collar and ‘dictatorship’ to the cuff then simply embroidering in black thread. I didn’t have access to an embroidery hoop which may have made following the lines easier however I’m more than pleased with the result and wouldn’t do it any differently given the choice.

The last shirt look much longer however I didn’t lose concentration because I found the processes quite enjoyable.

First I printed black and white images from my expressions photography onto photo transfer paper bought from PoundLand and followed the instructions to iron on carefully. It was important not to use steam because the water would’ve damaged the paper and produced a bubbly print. As I was peeling the images off they didn’t stick to the shirt very well because I was being so cautious not to burn the fabric. This is a lesson to be learned for next time that I need to press down more firmly and work the image in with the iron until suitably fixed. On the other hand I actually like the effect. It gives the shirt and aged feel and actually really compliments the rest of my work so far in terms of aesthetics.

The next thing I did was draw a smocking pattern onto the (outside) back of the shirt. I then proceeded to smock a section but stopped before I’d gone over the whole patten – as intended.

To finish this final design I took a piece of PVC, measured to fit the pocket and straight stitched a few millimetres from the edge. This didn’t take long at all but added some refined detail to the outcome.

Similarly to the first shirt that I produced, I took a limited amount of photos. This was because I left the making until very short notice and got carried away wanting to finish. I feel this is a really important lesson for me to learn within future projects because it is crucial to keep a clear record of work.

Tuesday

Having completed the making processes, I spent today producing a final line up board using my final design illustrations. The first column was for the amount of physical alterations that took place on each shirt. Each dot represents a spread alteration which would also give an indication of the time spent on each one. In industry, production time is a highly valuable factor which must be calculated accurately. Secondly was the size category O/S meaning one size. 2/3 shirts classed as O/S however the cropped one was much smaller and therefore I decided only suitable for a size XS/S (UK 6-8). Lastly was a record of the fabrics used. I didn’t really change much in terms of materials because I wanted to utilise what was already there – rather than alternatively starting from scratch. For me this board was just a visual summary of the alterations and specifications involved with producing each garment.

Wednesday

As time is no longer on my side today was assigned to styling and photographing my finished garments. I took my inspiration from the styling mood board and as intended, paired the shirts with a pair of black cycling shorts – which featured clear Nike branding down the side. I had the model wear a pair of my shoes (black Chanel trainers) and tied her hair back in a low ponytail to reveal some chunky, red statement hoops which hung dramatically against the monochrome outfits. I wanted to use a variety of camera types so completed the shoot using a DSLR, disposable camera and an app called HUJI on my phone, which is designed to imitate the effects of a disposable camera without requiring the photos to be sent off for development. I had the model stood in strong but relaxed poses with neutral facial expressions and used a designer belt to sinch in the striped shirt at the waist. Additionally I used body paint to write the word ‘oppression’ down her spine – as previously mentioned to expose the oppression within tyrannical reign which worked only with the PVC back on this design. I didn’t need to use any artificial lighting as the shoot was outdoors, and although the exposure for the day was low, it created an aged and more sinister feel to the imagery. I sent the photos off to be developed and will pick these up on Sunday. To see the full range of photos see my blogpost on ‘Final Photos’.

Thursday

Today I had an appointment which couldn’t be rescheduled so was unable to attend my internship. As all my imagery and production is complete I started today by creating a mood board for presentation inspiration and produced a mind map ideas for my final showcase. I used only primary imagery which I have been collecting over the past month or so from places including Selfridges, high street stores, the Tate Modern, Balenciaga at the V&A and the ‘Flipside’ exhibit I recently attended while in London. To see clearer images of my ‘presentation inspiration’ see the separate blogpost.

I also put together a page of imagery from the shoot just to summarise the different aspects that I took into consideration when styling for the shoot. (See above for photos).

Within my mind map I concluded that I wanted to incorporate some form of game related outcome to showcase my photography and outcomes. I knew at home that I have some giant playing cards so feel as though I’m leaning towards a house of cards related piece of work (as I had actually intended on exploring with my initial theme of Kamikaze.

A further aspect for consideration was whether I wanted a 2D or 3D outcome. As additional experimentation I put together a patchwork style 2D piece just to see what could be created in terms of ‘flat’ outcomes. It didn’t take very long to produce however proved to be quite an interesting piece. I used some of the photos from my DSLR and the left over photo transfer paper to print them onto scraps of calico and shirt fabric, then used a variety of stitches and a leftover statement zip to combine the imagery. Tomorrow I want to try pinning this to a mannequin just to explore the different options with this outcome.

Friday

I don’t feel as though I really achieved anything very productive today other than some simple testing with the 2D outcome I came up with yesterday. I simply pinned it into a mannequin to imitate the effect of a wearable garment and photographed on my phone using artificial lighting to accentuate the quality of the image. Although it produced some additional thoughts towards potential design ideas in future, nothing really sparked in terms of suggestions for presentation ideas – which is now my primary focus coming to the end of the FMP.

Over the weekend I’ll collect my developed photos and reevaluate showcase options based on how they turn out.

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